Wednesday, 18 April, 2012

Late in the 18th century, men’s fashion took a turn for the worse. The prudish, sexually repressed Victorian age threw a wet blanket over the Dionysian debauchery of the 17th century. The reign in France of Louis XIV, with his gloriously powdered face and wig, silk stockings of cardinal red, heels, and fine plumage of velvet, ribbons, and lace, would mark the zenith of aristocratic fashion. By the time the republicans executed Louis XVI, the flush of colors, fabrics, and accoutrements had already begun giving way to a darker, more muted palette. The Industrial Revolution changed the way people dressed, as mass-produced three-piece suits became more accessible. The bourgeois class ushered in a new paradigm where men were to be defined by their commitment to industry and work, not the elaborateness of their dress. Their sobriety was a direct rebuke of the excesses of the French aristocracy.

Prominent British psychologist J.C. Flugel, in his book, The Psychology of Clothes, called this moment the “Great Masculine Renunciation,” when men “abandoned their claim to be considered beautiful” and “henceforth aimed at being only useful.” The gender divide in fashion became more pronounced. Men had very important things on their minds, and could no longer concern themselves with the frivolity of fashion. Women—bored, empty, and vain creatures that they were—could distract themselves with bustles and crinoline like kittens chasing a ball of yarn. Fashion was cast as a narcissistic, superficial, and ultimately, female pursuit. Men, the story goes, had opted out.

— From Alex Jung’s wonderful essay on masculinity and menswear, “Come As You Are” (via TMN)
Monday, 12 March, 2012

Cathy Horyn’s Runway Report | Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012 (via New York Times)

Wednesday, 14 December, 2011
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

(via suicideblonde)

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

(via suicideblonde)
Thursday, 27 October, 2011
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2008 (via suicideblonde)

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2008 (via suicideblonde)

Monday, 24 October, 2011
Michelle Williams as Marilyn Monroe photographed by Annie Leibovitz for US Vogue October 2011.

Michelle Williams as Marilyn Monroe photographed by Annie Leibovitz for US Vogue October 2011.

Friday, 22 July, 2011
Frida Kahlo for Vogue France, 1938.

(via strangecuriosities)

Frida Kahlo for Vogue France, 1938.

(via strangecuriosities)

Saturday, 26 June, 2010
Will Watt, Red Velvet Shoes, 2010 (via Melbourne Street) 

Will Watt, Red Velvet Shoes, 2010 (via Melbourne Street

Friday, 1 January, 2010 Friday, 11 December, 2009
I don’t think she’s a fashion sage, I think she’s a novelty and I think she’s going to be used as a marketing device as a novelty.

Huffington Post’s longtime contributing style editor Lesley M. M. Blume on 13 yr old fashion blogger Tavi, via “Editors Like Tavi But Don’t Take Her Fashion Advice Seriously” at The Cut.

Although, how a blog that started in 2005 can really have a “longtime contributing” style editor is beyond me.

(via somethingchanged)

So that means Tavi was 9 years old when the HuffPo was born…

Well, fashion isn’t an obviously brainy thing to write about — it is a fairly hermetic world that exists in its own froofy bubble. I think homophobia and sexism may play a role in the trivializing of fashion; I think it is regarded as being something of a feminine ghetto, to the extent that it is tethered to the beauty industrial complex and women’s magazines (the stock in trade of which tends to be largely inane articles about How Getting My Teeth Veneered Helped Me Have Better Orgasms, etc.) But I think it’s a mistake to write off fashion as being devoid of intellectual content. New York Times "Critical Shopper" columnist Cintra Wilson tells Elle magazine (in response to the question: "Whenever someone tells me fashion/style writing is inherently vapid, I always forward your latest column to them. How would you respond to someone who tried to tell you what you write isn’t as elevated, intellectually, as say, a column in the Politics section of the paper?").
Friday, 27 November, 2009
Lily Allen (via j-ad0re)

Lily Allen (via j-ad0re)

Sunday, 22 November, 2009
Sasha Pivovarova, Hugo Sauzay, Irina Lazareanu, Freja Beha Erichsen & Eddie Klint  |  “Czechmate”  | W, December 2006  | By Michael Thompson (via calivintage)

Sasha Pivovarova, Hugo Sauzay, Irina Lazareanu, Freja Beha Erichsen & Eddie Klint | “Czechmate” | W, December 2006 | By Michael Thompson (via calivintage)

Monday, 27 July, 2009
By Raymond Meier, "City of Angles," New York Times.

By Raymond Meier, "City of Angles," New York Times.

By Raymond Meier, "City of Angles," New York Times.

By Raymond Meier, "City of Angles," New York Times.

Thursday, 23 July, 2009
Lily Allen, Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, Emma Watson (via yourdealer)

Lily Allen, Dita Von Teese, Katy Perry, Emma Watson (via yourdealer)